Plans for another engine

For some time now I started to collect engine parts to maybe some day assemble my first ever engine. Latest acquisition is a lightend and balanced flywheel with pressure plate and clutch. That flywheel is out of a Vegantune X-flow and is based on a standard flywheel. Another engine I recently bought came with an even lighter flywheel, but I don't know where it comes from. Both have 110 teeth gear rings. This gives me a choice of two (6kg or 6.6kg). Steel flywheels normally are sub 5kg.
The pressure plate apparently has been balanced as well since it spots some holes in the cover. It weighs around 3.6kg. I don't know if I will use the clutch disc, I may opt for a new one. The Sierra Type 9 gearbox needs a 1" 23spline pattern and I also have a very old (and very light!) four speed box, with a 7/8" 20spline pattern. That pattern is the right one for the clutch disc included with the Vegantune flywheel and pressure plate.
Some more parts to purchase from now to next winter, and maybe then I will assemble a nice, high revving, well balanced and powerfull X-flow.
Cheers.

Gearbox oil

Prior to mount the side panel, it is wise to do some jobs ... like fill up the gearbox. It is still possible with the bodywork in place, but now it is less complicated or should I say, less gynaecological ;-) The plug can be unscrewed with a 10mm Allen key or with the 4-pan of a 3/8" ratchet.

The oil comes in a canister with a long nozzle. This helps to reach the filling hole without spilling too much.

With the gearbox oil at level, the pedals' install can be finished. This is the retaining spring from the original clutch pedal ... nanana, didn't throw it away, precious thing!

Cheers.

Pedalbox completed

Hours and hours spent, the last change adopted was to alter the pivot center of the clutch pedal. Things went fine with sheet supports bolted to the pedalbox chassis...

... and some more sheet welded to the lower lever of the clutch pedal to fix the clutch cable. The foot rest is adjusted to its lowest point. The final adjustment of all three pedals will be done later (clutch and accelerator when the engine is running, brake pedal when the piping has been completed).
Cheers.
Jos

Clutch pedal modification plan

The original clutch pedal will not give enough travel to operate the clutch. As I want to keep the pedal as it is, the mod will be bolt/riveted to the existing installation. Therefore, the lower lever will be extended and the pivot center mounted higher (approx. 15mm). The upper lever will be shortened accordingly.

This is how the higher pivot center should look. With 60/190mm the ratio will be 3,16 (previously 4,77). Hopefully, this will accord with the required clutch-fork travel and give a good pedal feel when driving and changing gears.
Cheers.

News up front

 

New steeringrack mounted up front. Looks posh with those big aluminium brackets.

Front left suspension with wheelcarrier and hub and discbrake. This is only for trial, the body panel has to be fitted first for the final assembly.

And some more homework ... the clutch pedal from OBP has not the right ratio. I have the choice, modifying the existing pedal or designing a new one. Depending on available time (and skills), I will decide. I'm tempted to build a pedal which will exactly suit my needs and keep the original pedal in case I need it anyhow.

Cheers.

Size matters

Long versus short. The clutch cable in the car was rather long. The short one is from a Ford Escort MkII and will be a better fit. In case you encountered a similar problem, try to get the clutch cable with the Ford part# 15613600 from a 75-80 Ford Escort (talking about the 20th century!).

 

The handbrake lever positioned further back will not interfere with the gearlever anymore. I'm quite pleased with this disposition. Hopefully, I will find a good way to clothe both levers and make it look like a well designed car from the inside as well.

Cheers.

Pedalcar

The clutch cable routing shows that the cable is quite long. Connecting it to the pedal is not complicated and there is enough remaining cable for adjustment. I wanted to keep the clutch cable operated and not add a piston and convert to hydraulic.

The pedals mounted with the throttle operation finished, the clutch pedal to be adjusted and the brake pedal to be modified. I decided to alter the original adjustment system for ease of use. With all three pedals in place, it is possible to choose a spot for the footrest destined for the clutch-foot. Not much room left, but I really want to try fitting one for comfort during long journeys.
Cheers.