Current

With the bike battery being small and light, its capacity is lower than a car's battery. That's why I always connect it to a tickler to keep the charge. The new garage has no current yet, so out I went and bought a photovoltaic module and controller. The sun shining through the large window will allow this setup to keep the battery alive for future blatting.
Cheers.

Fusebox inlay

While working on the car, I became aware that I didn't tag the fuses. The relays are large enough to put a sticker on, but how to do with the small blades? I made this simple inlay with Microsoft Paint to cut out and next time I will put it inside the fusebox.
Cheers.

Lights

Lights and indicators connected and tested.

Windscreen and mirrors mounted, all covered in 18 months storage grunge.
Cheers.

Fuse and relay box ready

Some minor connections to be made next weekend, but the fuse and relay box is ready and in place. Note free fuse connections to add more electrical loads if needed.

New bedtime reading arrived today ... good night!
Cheers.

Still no electric's end

More done today, but still a lot to do:
Sidelights, Beam, Highbeam, Indicators, Stoplight, Horn, and maybe some other stuff I forgot. Never thought that electrics is that much work.
Cheers.

Throttle cable

After assembling the throttle linkage, it was time to connect the cable coming from the pedal. Quite a fiddle with almost no access to the pedal underneath the dashboard, but the result is ok. Some adjustment to be done with the engine running.

Two relays mounted and connected, six more to come.

Cheers.

Speed sensor bracket

The new wheel carrier has different fixing points, that's why I had to build a new bracket to carry the wheel speed sensor. It counts the brake disc bolts and the odometer calculates the speed together with the wheel's circumference.
Cheers.

Centre console ready

With the fuel issues solved and a first test run, I can go on with the wiring ...
The centre console will be bolt between the transmission tunnel and the dashboard. For easy access, it can be removed, the electrical connection is realized with multi-pin connectors. An old power supply helped to check the wiring.
Cheers.

Fuel issues

Emerald confirmed one of the injector drivers being fried, for whatever reason. Repair is done under warranty, although this ECU has more than two years. Talk about customer care! Just great!
With the ECU abroad I had time to have a look at the fuel plumbing and noticed a very small leak where the pre-pump filter meats the high pressure pump. Diameter is reduced from 15mm to 12mm and at the time, I hadn't found the best solution for plumbing this in. Everything is dismantled and I will chase the right tube and clips to do it right.

When I unmounted the fuel pump, I found out that a harness without connectors might be light and have less points of failure, but it is difficult to quickly unmount a device. Saturday was soldering day, the pump got a connector. And I started to wire the fuse/relay-box.

Cheers.

Fuel sensor

The Stack fuel gauge is fully programmable. You can connect whatever sensor and chose from different backlight colors for maximum, minimum or normal operation. The sensor is quite an old one but still works fine. Settings for the Stack fuel gauge are customized, min and max levels can be programmed individually.

Dash cabling is almost finished. The rest is for next year ... Happy New Year! See you in 2013!
Cheers.

Dash cabling

No scuttle yet means free access to the rear side of the dashboard. Switchwork of starter, horn, high beam and the oil pressure gauge with it's low pressure warning light are done.

It's a start and there is more to come. To test the cabling, I crimped some provisional terminals and connected them to the battery. Nothing is more frustrating then short circuits during installation, and with some good connectors and a little discipline, this can be evitated.

Cheers.

Stack sensor loom

Loom #one is for everything sucking high currents.
Loom #two is for the sensors connected to the ECU.
The third loom shown here is for the sensors connected to the Stack gauges. More and more cables fill the engine bay and scuttle and will be linked during some more cabling sessions. With only 5°C in the workshop, it's not the ideal setting for such a job, but it has to be done.
Cheers.

Terminals

Connectors for crank signal, ignition coils, air temperature and throttle position.

Good stuff those AMP terminals, but a pita to have a nice harness. Strip the cable, coat it with tin, weld the pins, put the boot and braided sleeve over the cable, check the wiring diagram, put the pins into the terminal, pull on the boot, shrink the protective sleeve, done! Those four connectors took me two hours. As a reward it looks neat and professional!
Cheers.

And there was light ...

We welded new brackets and mounted the headlamps this morning. The small 4" units look good on a small car like this.
Cheers.

Wasted spark

Ignition in my car will be of wasted spark system. This means that both cylinders compressing and exhausting get a spark. In the cylinder compressing, the spark will detonate the mixture - in the cylinder exhausting, the spark has no effect (wasted!). Cylinders 1&4 and cylinders 2&3 are grouped and have separate coils. The picture shows the double coil and HT-leads with the according labels. Principle circuit diagram explains how ignition is triggered according to crank position. If you want to know more, this compendium is quite complete.

The coil has quite some weight and has to be secured with a bespoke bracket. I chose one of the front chassis rails as I want to route the HT(high tension)-cables from underneath the intake manifold.

Cheers.

Sensors

A whole afternoon spent to locate all the sensors and connect some of them. Here we go:

Water t° sensors for Emerald (ECU) and Stack (dashboard), air t° sensor for ECU.

Oil t° and oil pressure sensors (old and new) for the Stack dials.

Crank position sensor and throttle position sensor (TPS), both for the ECU.

 

To avoid some of the cables coliding with the belt and drive pulley, I routed them through a small protective piece of aluminium tube. At the same time, this allows to have all the cabling on the same side of the engine.

Cheers.

Lucas ACR Alternator

A good connection of the alternator is essential. Contacts and terminals should be ok, cable cross-section big enough. The Lucas ACR alternator has a black 3pin cap. Mine has lost it's cover since long, the brown cable got stiff over the years and I wanted to improve the whole charging circuit. The diagram shows the original cabling with two 2.5sq/mm to connect to the battery and starter. I opted for a 6.0sq/mm section which gives a little more cross-section and only one cable to install. I soldered it to the brown cables very near to the connector.

The case is ground and connects the negative to the battery and starter via the chassis. The positive spades are 9.5mm (ref. T407) for the charge current and 6.3mm (ref. T406) for the warning light on the dashboard. Click the terminals' pic to get to a complete guide of all the automotive terminals and connectors.

Cheers.

Sensor harness

After identifying what goes where, I split the ignition/injection-harness into two parts: one going to the engine bay connecting to all the different sensors and one going to the fuse-box.

Silly enough, some of the mods already have to be modified. Velcro straps are not allowed to hold a battery. The bracket has to hold back the battery during a crash, so this is one for a Varley red top battery of the same size. Brake fluid reservoirs have to be transparent, alternatively there must be a level indicator. I have to find a way to adapt the cap on the right reservoir to the kind of cover shown on the left one.

Winter can come now with this little fella at my side (3300W).

Cheers.

Connections

The goal is to hide electrics as much as possible. Front and rear looms are in, the ignition/injection loom has to be done. Some devices are already connected and can be checked (horn, fan), others have to wait (pump, lights). Small additional looms will connect the lights and flashers.

This opening will be hidden by the fuse/relay-box and connect to the different looms. The Emerald-loom stays separate.

Cheers.