MoT - yeeeeeaaaaah!

Finally, after a two years rebuild, my car is officially on the road again. This is the first weekend since October 2011 that I will not work on the car... peacefully resting in its home again.
Cheers.

Still not RTR (Ready To Race)

Some more small problems to struggle with that make that I still have no MoT. The small one was a loose bolt on the diff carrier (solved after a dive underneath the car), the complicated one was CO being too high and the labour intensive one was a cabling error to the headlights. I did a mess and mixed up ground with one of the headlight 12V+ wires. Silly me! Solved whilst resoldering, followed by adjustment.

The technical control mentioned a CO rate of around 8% which is far too high. During TechnoClassica in April I purchased a Gunson Gastester. Out it came to try adjustment on my own. Here is how I proceeded:
- run the car so it is hot (around 80° water T)
- connect the gastester and leave it for 8min
- calibrate the gastester to 2% and wait another 2min to let it stabilize
- put the probe into the exhaust and leave it there until you get a reading
- open the map in your ECU and go to the live adjustments (Emerald)
- tap 2 to decrease or 3 to increase fuel (injection trim)
Before you start, be sure to adjust iddle and check the TPS (throttle position sensor) setting.

I managed to set it to 1.6% which should be ok, than had a run and checked the value. It was slightly higher but still ok. I may repeat the adjustment just before I go to MoT next time.
Cheers.

NGK BPR7ES

Thats the type of spark plugs I now use!
Previously I ran the same type without the R (BP7ES) and it was fine with carbs. Now that I converted to injection, these no longer work. The difference is quite spectacular: rough idle, idle remains not constant when warming the engine, bad combustion a.o. After I rebuilt the engine it ran ok but had some backfire on idle when warm. Checking with Dave Walker, head of Emerald ECU, he recommended to use the "R" plugs. Now the engine runs a charm ... fingers crossed it will do for a long time.
This is mostly due to RFI (radio frequency interference) generated together with the spark. No harm for carbs, but as soon as electronics are involved, it matters.

Gap is set to 1mm. Have a look at above chart if you travel through both imperial and metrical worlds.

Once the engine is run in, I will do a power blat and check the spark plugs colour. Only then I will proceed to more tweeking of the ECU settings (ignition and fueling).
Cheers.