Feet position

Conversion to floor mounted pedals generated an unwanted drawback: the feet position was not ideal. To hit the pedal as supposed to, I had to heel off. Now I added a small pedestal to allow the ball of the foot to push the pedal at the right height.
Cheers.

Pedalbox completed

Hours and hours spent, the last change adopted was to alter the pivot center of the clutch pedal. Things went fine with sheet supports bolted to the pedalbox chassis...

... and some more sheet welded to the lower lever of the clutch pedal to fix the clutch cable. The foot rest is adjusted to its lowest point. The final adjustment of all three pedals will be done later (clutch and accelerator when the engine is running, brake pedal when the piping has been completed).
Cheers.
Jos

Clutch pedal modification plan

The original clutch pedal will not give enough travel to operate the clutch. As I want to keep the pedal as it is, the mod will be bolt/riveted to the existing installation. Therefore, the lower lever will be extended and the pivot center mounted higher (approx. 15mm). The upper lever will be shortened accordingly.

This is how the higher pivot center should look. With 60/190mm the ratio will be 3,16 (previously 4,77). Hopefully, this will accord with the required clutch-fork travel and give a good pedal feel when driving and changing gears.
Cheers.

... and more brackets!

A rebuild is a chance to do things better. One annoying missing feature was a rest-pedal for the clutch foot during long journeys. Out of aftermarket aluminium pedals I cut two small pedals and mounted the larger one. If it appears to be too large, I will mount the smaller one. A small bracket welded to the chassis holds the pedal.

The high pressure pump for the fuel injection conversion will be mounted near the swirlpot and underneath the throttle-bodies. A little bit of steel is needed to fabricate a bespoke bracket.

 Bracket welded in place and holding the HP pump for trial fit.

Top view to show how the HP pump will connect to the swirlpot. The pump will almost not be visible once the throttle-bodies are in mounted.
Cheers.

Pedalcar

The clutch cable routing shows that the cable is quite long. Connecting it to the pedal is not complicated and there is enough remaining cable for adjustment. I wanted to keep the clutch cable operated and not add a piston and convert to hydraulic.

The pedals mounted with the throttle operation finished, the clutch pedal to be adjusted and the brake pedal to be modified. I decided to alter the original adjustment system for ease of use. With all three pedals in place, it is possible to choose a spot for the footrest destined for the clutch-foot. Not much room left, but I really want to try fitting one for comfort during long journeys.
Cheers.

Cleckos

Funny name. Another one could have been "provisory rivets". This would have explained the function as well. A spring loaded inner mechanism expands with the special tool pictured. Then the clecko is fixed and the spring released.

 

One pic instead of thousand words, a few cleckos help to provisorily fix the panel. Than I can mark the big holes for the brake master cylinders and cut them out.

As soon as the panel is fixed, the brake master cylinders can be mounted. For good.

Backside of the pedalbox prior to mount the pedals. Throttle and brake linkage are solved, a solution for the clutch activation has to be invented yet. But this is basic mechanics and feasable (hopefully...).

Cheers.

Put the pedal to the metal

Amazingly enough how time flies... Those brake pipes take a lot of time to be bent. Although not completely happy with my work, it is a start. Once it is clear which flare has to be pressed, it's a matter of buying the right connectors and go on. This is only the front circuit with both brake master cylinders mounted provisorily. I'll decide later about a second try to make it look better, for now it's ok to locate all the different components of the brake circuit.

With the pedal box on the floor, the throttle activation must be re-engineered. After preparing the pedal mechanism to receive the clevis, an additional bracket performs as end stop for the Bowden cable. The cable arrives from the top and is pulled down by the pedal.

The nipple at the end of the Bowden cable is held by the clevis fixed to the pedal. All this has to move freely to evitate blocking or uneven pedal movement. That's why a lot of effort has been spent into designing this particular piece of kit.

Midday I will hop over to the braking workshop and buy some more stuff (connectors, half-nuts, a.s.o.) to continue work next weekend.

Cheers.

Pedalbox bracket

It's a good feeling to start work. Ordering parts is great, dreaming of how it will look even better, but really working on it is best. And even better during Christmas holidays with my sons helping. After trial fitting the pedal box, we fabricated a bespoke bracket and MIG-welded it into the chassis (visible above the pedalbox). Those are not the only fixing points as the pedal forces have to be divided and spread.
Next task is grinding the whole chassis and painting it.
Cheers.

Parts order #1

The fun part of this all is when you can pick up the phone, call the manufacturer of your car and order a lot of stuff. Just like Christmas... a little bit earlier. With weight saving on my mind, I ordered the uprights (wheel carrier) and the hubs made of aluminium. Plus all the small parts like nuts, washers, grease caps and a complete ball joint set and steering rack rod ends. And like you can see further down in an earlier thread, the wide track kit (X-mas offer 299.-£ instead of 457.-£).

The disease is called 'upgraditis' and when it hits you, you cannot stop with just replacing what is broken. Every part you take in your hand (and when stripping a car you hold EVERY part in your hand) you think about how you could replace it with a better, lighter or cleverer part. But I will try really hard not to exaggerate... well, we'll see ;-)  Have a look at the pedal box I ordered yesterday:

Looks cool, doesn't it?  I'm curious to see how it will fit the car as I have to convert from hanging pedals to a floor mounted box. This system has two separate brake cylinders for the front and rear brakes with a bias bar to set the ratio between the two axles. The clutch will remain cable-operated, but it could be upgraded to hydraulic as well.

Cheers.